Choosing a bicycle.

If you don't already have a cycle, be careful about your choice; here are the main considerations -

Frame size, saddle height.

Frames are measured as indicated by the long arrow in inch sizes (eg. 21") and your stature will determine the best size for you. 'Inside leg' measurement is the usual guide, but an experienced cycle dealer will probably have a good idea of yours as soon as you walk into the shop - no need for a tape measure!! The height of the saddle (short arrow) above the frame is critical for your riding comfort; the 'stem' is adjustable (between limits) up or down the frame tube and fractions of an inch ARE important; get this wrong and your legs will quickly ache; get it right and you can ride for miles!

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The 'Mountain' bike's wide, chunky tyre.

Very tough for 'off-road' cycling but gives a hard, noisy ride on smooth surfaces eg. roads. The 'Mountain' bike will usually have straight, wide handlebars and a tough frame - sometimes with suspension.

While the 'touring' bike has a more slender tyre.

Low rolling resistance if correctly inflated, good for road cycling and long rides. 'Touring' and racing bikes have curved or 'dropped' handlebars and lighter frames.

Most gear changes use the 'rear block'.

These are the 'Derailleur' gears. A bike will be supplied with a particular 'block', but this can be removed and the number of rings, and the ratio between them, changed to personal choice. Note that gear changing is made by moving the chain sideways (by the gear-change lever) to 'jump' from one ring to another and this 'jump' ONLY happens while pedalling.

Know your tyre markings!

These are found around the side wall of a tyre...

Max and Min. pressure
is marked in Bar and Pounds per Square Inch (PSI).---->
The harder the tyre, the easier the ride.

The 'Drive' marking is very easy to overlook ------------>
Mount the tyre on the rim to rotate as indicated when ridden.

Yes - size IS important! Tyre size marked in Imperial - this one is 28 inches diameter, 1.1inch wide--->
Can also be marked in Continental system eg. 700x28C

POPULAR TYPES OF BIKE... 

Mountain, touring, racing, hybrid, probably a few more. A brief look at each; 

The Mountain

Probably the most common seen around, and the most widely sold. Maybe because those chunky tyres look unlikely to puncture, so great for all that fun off-road stuff and our leisure trips up the canal. BUT - can be harder and more noisy to pedal on tarmac - which is where we want to encourage you to be!

Some mountain frames - and saddles - are 'sprung' or have 'shock absorbers'.  Great (essential) on a car, maybe not so on a bicycle - can absorb that valuable pedalling power.

Very wide range of gears - maybe three 'chainrings' (at the pedal cranks) and several (typically five or more - called the block) on the rear hub. Choose a cycle with as many rings and block gears as you can afford with a wide ratio ( difference between smallest and largest).  On the rear - the gears you will be changing most often - the small ones give speed, the larger are selected when climbing.  As you get better, and fitter, you WILL want to go faster, and climb hillier! 

And please (you will thank me eventually) have mudguards fitted! Many mountain machines are sold without m/guards, either to keep cost or 'weight' down (!)  The first bit of mud you go through, there's a streak of dirt right up the back of your clothing!  Don't buy without, thinking you will add them later - you won't!

The Tourer

A lighter frame, more narrow tyres with a finer tread, usually 'dropped' handlebars.  Much better (quieter, smoother, less 'rolling resistance') for on-road cycling and for any longer journeys.  Again, go for as many gears as you can afford.  Ratios CAN be changed but you WILL want more than you started with if the cycle only comes with few gears.

The Racer

Similar in appearance to the tourer but even lighter frame, slimmer tyres still (for even less rolling resistance).  Tend to have much closer block ratios to keep a steady pedalling rhythm at different speeds so maybe less suited where speed is going to change significantly.  Used extensively for very long distance riding, time trials etc.

The Hybrid

A design between the mountain and tourer. A sturdy frame, tyres with an obvious but not 'tractor' tread, wide gears, to give a reasonable ride on-road and extra toughness off-road.  Some cyclists have a mountain and a tourer.  Much depends on how much cycling you THINK you will be doing, and where the majority of this might be.